Rewired Radio City Pizzeria is Worth Another Taste

Radio City Pizza, on Fremont Street East in downtown Las Vegas, opened back in early 2013. We tried the pizza a couple of times, found it lacking, and never went back.

Recently, though, we’ve been hearing positive buzz about the restaurant, so we had to stop by for another taste. We’re optimistic like that.

Radio City Pizzeria
If a pizza place can’t thrive in a location where hundreds of drunk people go by each day, where can it?

Radio City Pizza has transformed into Radio City Pizzeria in recent weeks, and everything we thought we knew about the place now feels like ancient history. Specifically, history we’d rather forget, like Nazi Germany or when Steven Tyler was a judge on “American Idol.”

Radio City Pizzeria
Radio City Pizzeria is about 12 steps from Fremont Street Experience. If your steps are 26 feet long.

Apparently, the minds behind a humble but popular Las Vegas sandwich shop, The Goodwich, are now managing Radio City Pizzeria, and we’re all the beneficiaries of the change.

Radio City Pizzeria
The whole place has had a makeover, from the menu to the decor. Yes, there are still TVs, but fewer than before, which is a step in the right direction if you ask us. And you should, because we know everything. Except about G-spots. Never have figured those out.

The change in management has also meant a new chef, Sean Collins. He previously worked his magic at Rose.Rabbit.Lie. inside Cosmopolitan, and the retooled menu at Radio City Pizzeria has more than a few similarities to the innovative, quirky fare at Rose.Rabbit.Lie.

Radio City Pizzeria
We’re fans of the view given all the sparkly nearby.

The menu makes up for its lack of girth with its depth. Or something.

A good portion of the menu is devoted to piattini, Italian for “small plates.” The Brussels sprouts (often mistakenly called “brussel sprouts”) are highly recommended, and could go toe-to-toe with the extraordinary Brussels sprouts served at Cleo inside SLS. Yes, this Las Vegas blog is fully admitting to liking two dishes featuring Brussels sprouts. In one lifetime.

Radio City Pizzeria
Relax, bro, there’s bacon. They call it “pancetta,” but that translates as, “Relax, bro, there’s bacon.”

There is a distinct possibility we also ordered a dish called “Winter Squash.” Because miracles never cease, that’s why. Again, scrumptious, and unlike anything we’ve ever had in a pizza restaurant. Or a pizzeria, for that matter. Assuming those are different things. We are not an Italian. If we were, we’d have more sex. And graft. Moving on.

Radio City Pizza Las Vegas
This dish was replete with butternut squash, ricotta and sage brown butter, and not just because we were looking for an excuse to use the word “replete.”

You’ll also want to try the Crudo, or “old-style sashimi,” with bergamot, extra virgin olive oil, roe and micro radish. See more small plates.

Radio City Pizzeria
Roe is the fully ripe internal egg masses in the ovaries of a fish, but almost nobody describes it that way on a menu, for some reason.

Clearly, this is not your average pizza joint. Still, the pizza has to hold its own, and we’re happy to report the new Radio City Pizzeria leaves the restaurant’s previous pizza in the dust.

The menu features “NYC Pies” and “House Pies.”

On the NYC Pies side, guests have the option of red, white or green. Those also happen to be the colors on the Italian flag. They’re also the colors of the flag for the Republic of Abkhazia, but that seems less relevant for some reason.

Once you choose the color of your pizza, you can add veggies, cheese and meat in various combinations. (For an extra buck, you can get a 14-inch gluten-free crust.)

The House Pies are 12-inchers, and are anything but your run-of-the-mill pizzas. There’s the Chicken Oyster, Pork Pie, Winter Squash and Duck.

We opted for the Hearts & Flowers, mainly because we’re a hopeless romantic. That, and we saw the pizza on another table and it looked adorable. Our pie had beef heart, rose water and basil pesto, wildflower honey and mozzarella. Yes, we ordered it, anyway, and it was tasty as all get-out.

Radio City Pizzeria
Dibs on Wildflower Honey as a future band name.

Our only gripe with anything at Radio City Pizzeria had to do with the amount of flour used during the pizza-making process. Excess flour on the outer edges of the crust gave it a powdery texture and less-than-ideal flavor. Easy to fix. Just use less.

While Radio City Pizzeria doesn’t currently serve desserts, it’s just a matter of time. The manager says the whole menu is a work in progress, so there are likely to be more additions soon.

If you crave something sweet, we’d suggest one of the spiked egg cream drinks. Egg cream drinks have a fascinating history, so we obviously won’t be including that here because if it’s one thing this Las Vegas blog refuses to be known for, it’s fascinatingness.

Radio City Pizzeria Las Vegas
If this egg cream drink hadn’t been spiked, we’d be much better equipped to identify which egg cream drink it is.

With the food handled, Radio City Pizzeria has taken some real care in putting together its beverage menu.

The draft beer selection seems diverse and plentiful. We would not know, however, since we’ve never had a beer. Here’s the list. If you do know beer, you’re likely to lose your “noble rot” over Radio City Pizzeria’s selection of rare and aged beers. The full list.

The wine selection is surprisingly good for a pizza joint, even an elevated one.

There’s a selection of cocktails, from “Classics” like the Gen/Gen Mule, NY Sour and Bronx, Improved. There are also Spritz Aperitivos. We would not know an aperitivo if we fell into one. Here are your options.

Anyway, here’s another look at the place.

Radio City Pizzeria Vegas
There are plans to spruce up the restaurant’s patio. We have high hopes for another charming outdoor space like at The Park next door, or on the second floor of Commonwealth, or the upstairs patio at Carson Kitchen.

We’re not wrapping up this blog post until we give a shout-out to the clever overhead lamps pictured below. When tables are separate, for two people, the lights hang individually. But when tables are pushed together to make a four-top, the lights are stuck together.

Radio City Pizzeria downtown
Cleverness is even better than dessert sometimes.

If you’re not up for the full dining room experience, Radio City Pizzeria was also nice enough to install a walk-up window for slices. While the restaurant is open 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m., the window for slices will be open late into the night.

Radio City Pizzeria
Your drunchies are about to be schooled. Slices run $3-4.

Overall, the revamped Radio City Pizzeria is a dramatic departure from the restaurant we previously came to know and ignore. It’s a worthy addition to the likes of the aforementioned Carson Kitchen and Downtown Container Park’s Perch, among others.

Thanks to our BBFFs (like “BFFs,” but between blogs) at Vegas Chatter for tipping us off to the rebranded Radio City Pizzeria. We’re glad we gave it another shot, and look forward to seeing what surprises the bar-restaurant have in store. Emphasis on bar, of course.