Cosmopolitan Mucks With Famous Verbena Cocktail, Everything is Ruined
The Verbena at Cosmopolitan is arguably the most famous cocktail in Las Vegas. Sorry, was. Past tense.
That’s because Cosmo (operated by MGM Resorts) no longer makes this drink featuring a Szechuan “buzz button.” Bartenders pour it from a bottle, pre-mixed. And the recipe was changed.
It’s yet another example of squandering a beloved asset to lower costs and “standardize” the guest experience. And by “standardize,” of course, we mean “making it as boring and forgettable as possible.” Cue the sad trombone and don’t shoot the messenger.
If you don’t know about the Verbena cocktail, you may not be Vegas enough.
The Verbena is storied. We should know, we have written some of the stories about it. We even shared the recipe.
Originally, the Verbena wasn’t on the cocktail menu at Cosmo’s Chandelier Bar, which is one of the things that made it so cool.
We honestly can’t think of another cocktail that’s more well known or popular, other than maybe the Sinatra Smash at Wynn, and that’s a distant second. Third: Ass Juice at Double Down Saloon. If you know, you know and we’re sorry you know. Moving on.
The Verbena used to print money for Cosmo and MGM Resorts, but at some point, a suit decided to choke the golden chicken. Or something.
The Verbena is now bottled, and they screwed with the recipe. There’s no mixology involved anymore, it’s just another drink on the shelf. Bartenders don’t have to know how to make it, other than adding the Szechuan button.
The Szechuan button (technically, Acmella oleracea) creates a tingling sensation when you chew it thanks to a chemical called spilanthol that activates the trigeminal nerve pathway. Common knowledge if you know how to cut and paste from our previous blog post about the Verbena.
Fun fact: Tony “The Ant” Spilanthol was a reputed mobster and enforcer, depicted by Joe Pesci in “Casino.”
Anyway, the Verbena has now been commoditized.
What was once a special, unique experience is now something that feels more mass-produced, ordinary and easily replicated.
To put it simply: The Verbena has been diluted.
MGM Resorts is using what are called “packers,” companies that package, bottle, label and sometimes blend liquor on behalf of a brand.
In the case of the Verbena, a packer mass produces the drink, despite the bottles proudly claiming “Handcrafted.” That word doesn’t mean what they think it means.
Packers don’t muddle, they meddle.
The Verbena has now been labeled “Verbena Yuzu Margarita.”
The drink now contains rum, despite the fact margaritas don’t contain rum.
People often complain about how big corporations are affecting the Las Vegas experience, well, this is an obvious situation where they have every right to complain.
MGM Resorts would say, as mentioned, this bottled version of Verbena ensures every customer gets the exact same product. Bartenders don’t have to know how to make it (they also don’t have to spend time stocking or fresh-squeezing lemons) and using a packer means the ingredients can be adjusted to lower costs.
Lowering costs means those savings can be passed along to customers! Everyone wins!
Just kidding. Man, you are gullible. Higher margins mean happier stockholders. Oh, and we’re pretty sure lots of palms are greased in packer contracts, with everyone involved getting kickbacks for their stellar cost-saving abilities. Note: This is pure speculation. This isn’t our first rodeo, lawyerwise.
We don’t fault MGM Resorts or the bigwigs at Cosmo for trying to find ways of cutting costs or doing quality control, but mucking with a beloved cocktails needn’t be one of those ways. Commoditization erodes the value of brands. It sacrifices long-term equity for short-term gains, or as our fellow kids say, “Stepping over Bitcoin to pick up Hawk Tuah Coin.”
Some things in Las Vegas should be treated as sacrosanct: Anything neon. The Bellagio fountains (looking at you, F1 grandstands) and Conservatory. Chelsea at Oscar’s. Valeria at Golden Gate. Tacos El Gordo. Free parking at Circus Circus. Vegas Vic and Vegas Vickie. Plastic straws. The Peppermill. Elvis weddings. The million-dollar display at Binion’s. The “Welcome to Las Vegas” sign. Cheap hot dogs at Casino Royale.
Ruining the Verbena isn’t ruining everything, but the list of unruined things seems to be getting shorter by the day.
Oh, and Circus Circus is about to start charging for parking.
Just to keep the sad trombone player busy.
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